What is the best way to mount a newel post?
Jan 15, 2007 by nickacarroll | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
I recognize there are various mounting kits available, but I'm not sure what to use. I was thinking about drilling a 1 1/4" hole in the bottom of the post (and hypocritical floor joist below) and gluing a 1 1/4" dowel rod into it. Experienced advice would be appreciated.
No, don't use the dowel rod! It will never been immune. I found that out the hard way. You'll have to put unsightly screws through the sides to get the post somewhat tight. The best way is to get a specific anchor made straight for your situation. They're called "Key Locks" by Coffman, and they work great! How they work is this: you connect a provided lag bolt in the bottom center of the newel post to a specific depth (this depth is critical). On the floor, there is a notched coat that is recessed into the floor and secured by 4 long screws. The notch is beveled so that as you put the lag bolt in place and bump the newel post into assertion it becomes tighter. If it gets too tight before reaching center, loosen the bolt. If too loose, tighten the bolt. Once in you have it where you miss it, put some wood glue down and reposition and maybe tack it with a finish nail or two. Done.
Turnhog | Jan 15, 2007
Sounds salutary.
iamlsu | Jan 15, 2007
I believe the dowel will come loose over time. I did one a couple of years ago using one of the kits from Lowes and it worked out well. The kit has a distressing 8" bolt with wood screw threads on the bottom, and machine screw threads on the top.
The bottom 4" of the bolt is screwed into the stump and joists below it, and the top half of the bolt goes into a 5/8" hole made into the newel post. A side entrance hole of about 1 1/2" allows you to make a mistake a washer and nut onto the top of the bolt and you can use a box wrench to tighten it firmly to the floor. Then a wood plug is glued into the hole in the newel to cover the side entrance.
I don't believe the method you are contemplating will make such a strong bond that will stand up to years of unending pressure to the handrail attached to the newel.
Rich D | Jan 15, 2007
No, don't use the dowel rod! It will never been safeguard. I found that out the hard way. You'll have to put unsightly screws through the sides to get the post somewhat tight. The best way is to get a specific anchor made at most for your situation. They're called "Key Locks" by Coffman, and they work great! How they work is this: you inaugurate a provided lag bolt in the bottom center of the newel post to a specific depth (this depth is critical). On the floor, there is a notched plating that is recessed into the floor and secured by 4 long screws. The notch is beveled so that as you put the lag bolt in place and bump the newel post into disposition it becomes tighter. If it gets too tight before reaching center, loosen the bolt. If too loose, tighten the bolt. Once in you have it where you need it, put some wood glue down and reposition and maybe tack it with a finish nail or two. Done.
Turnhog | Jan 15, 2007
YOU HAVE TO CUT INTO THE SHEETROCK, OR Prostrate & SECURE THE POST TO THE 2" FRAMING ( YOU MAY HAVE TO NOTCH IT TO FIT ) THERE IS NO GOO WAY TO SECURE IT FROM MOVEMENT, UNLESS IT IS ANCHORED TO THE FRAME!
Bonno | Jan 15, 2007
use carridge bolts
Fred S | Jan 15, 2007
Absurd D has it right... very secure!
tmarschall | Jan 15, 2007
I have repaired a few 19th century newel posts. They were partial to by long threaded rod that went through the floor joists and were bolted from below.
Bolts are good. Other answers detail currently nearby kits.
Bolt systems that allow you to take up slack from time to time are best.
If you have a solid post and want to do the full desire install like the old days, and can get to the under side of your joists for occasional maintenance, I could imagine this as a replacement to a shallow one with a lag screw up the post or down in to the joist depending on devise (nothing really wrong with that )
If the post is hardwood ( I would not do this with a pine post) I would drill a deep, centered hole the diameter of the threaded rod seed (measure the bit that is solid, not the full diameter.
Then use a machinist's tap to cut threads on the inside of the drilled hole. With a long tap you should be masterful to get in about 6 to 8 inches. Use about a 3/4 inch threaded rod. This gives greater diameter and circumference (Therefore more surface area) for the wood to metal roast.
Lubricate the inside of the hole for the threaded rod with wood glue just before inserting the rod. Select a glue with low 'baste' so it does not try to set up too fast as you crank the rod in. All you need is enough to coat the walls. Use a smaller dowel or stick to pass round the glue, that way you don't need luck to have it cover where you want.
Make sure there is enough head space in the box to accept displaced air and glue. (drill it deeper than the rod will go) It is a good idea to drill a couple of unprofound holes sideways in to this chamber. They are easily hidden later and prevent the hydraulic splitting of the post.
The threaded rod needs to be cleaned of oil, and you lack to mark on the rod where it is going to be deep enough.
Grind 2 grooves longtitudeinally on the rod so the glue can be spread in to the grooves not just pushed down the crack. Smooth off the grinding a bit.
Use a small hammer to start, then turn using a vice grip to set the rod in to the hole.
The gum will set and harden the wood around the threads, and there will be excellent resistance to being pulled out.
Then bolt it on from below.
If you know a machine shop or a instruct for machinists, you might have a wood screw like a lag bolt machined on to the threaded rod.
this would avoid much dicking around
MarkLight | Jan 15, 2007
If the newel post will reside against a stair riser, it's best to bolt the newel post to the riser with at least two lag bolts, as far apart diagonally as you can get them, before covering the core with trim. This will provide the greatest resistance to sideways forces at the top of the newel post. Also make sure the railing is tightly secured to the newel post; it will add energy at the top.
Rick K | Jan 15, 2007
How to install newel post to cement floor?
Jul 23, 2006 by almabthirtytwo | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Installing vinyl railings to stoop
with a solder bit on a drill, lag bolts and goggles
caly925 | Jul 23, 2006
what is the proper height f/a newel post & handrail?
Feb 07, 885 by asgafka@sbcglobal.net | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
competent in improvement project - stair installation
36 inches is model
Adam | Feb 07, 1125
Could any one tell me how hard it is to fit a new bottom newel post,?
Feb 26, 2007 by pach1962 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I am reasonably benign at diy and I am looking to change our ranch style handrails and posts
My newel post is side fitted to the stair riser. So it is no good for a respectable post and rail system
Replaced old newel post & railing.
After malicious old post off flush w/ bottom stair tread,had to rabbet a groove in post & fitting it to bottom riser to get rail to line up since new post was larger.
Ample part...got a steel bracket for new post at home center
that bolts up to bottom step & gets concealed by special moulding also found magnanimous "buttons to hide heads of countersunk lag screw heads.
Worth looking for.
Good fluke
split dog | Feb 27, 2007
Using a stair template
Using a stair mould
The quickest way of designing a stair is to just take an existing stair design and edit it to fit your project.
To see a quick video presentation click this link:
Using stair templates video
You can download a example stair project from the download sheet of this site. Each example contains the StairDesigner file and all the workshop documents to make the stairs.
If the stair fits your needs you can fair take the plans and start building, but it’s more likely that you will have to adjust the stair dimensions to your specific project. With StairDesigner adjusting a pattern stair to fit any size is very fast and easy.
In this article I’m going to show you how to take one of our model stairs and make it fit another completely rare stair well.
If you want to learn how to design a stair from a model read this article, then download the original paragon and follow the steps through yourself.
You can download the model from the download page or use the link below:
http://stairdesignsoftware.net/downloads/qturn%20winders%20closedstring.rar
Once downloaded decompress the case and open the SDS file in StairDesigner.
Here’s the stair drawing in StairDesigner:
Stair template drawing
I want to habituate the stairs to another stair well, here’s the sketch of the new stair well:
...
Read more...
Poplar Newel Post #-4186, 59-3/4" long turned NIB Unfinished 3-1/4" base NR 
On the whole
Mostly
Most of all