Jan 15, 2007 by nickacarroll | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
I recognize there are various mounting kits available, but I'm not sure what to use. I was thinking about drilling a 1 1/4" prison in the bottom of the post (and double floor joist below) and gluing a 1 1/4" dowel rod into it. Experienced advice would be appreciated.
No, don't use the dowel rod! It will never been certain. I found that out the hard way. You'll have to put unsightly screws through the sides to get the post somewhat tight. The best way is to get a specific moor made just for your situation. They're called "Key Locks" by Coffman, and they work great! How they employment is this: you install a provided lag bolt in the bottom center of the newel post to a specific depth (this depth is critical). On the trounce, there is a notched plate that is recessed into the floor and secured by 4 long screws. The notch is beveled so that as you put the lag bolt in seat and bump the newel post into position it becomes tighter. If it gets too tight before reaching center, loosen the bolt. If too cool off, tighten the bolt. Once in you have it where you want it, put some wood glue down and reposition and maybe tack it with a finish nail or two. Done.
Turnhog | Jan 15, 2007
Sounds Sunday.
iamlsu | Jan 15, 2007
I value the dowel will come loose over time. I did one a couple of years ago using one of the kits from Lowes and it worked out well. The kit has a lowering 8" bolt with wood screw threads on the bottom, and machine screw threads on the top.
The bottom 4" of the bolt is screwed into the nonplus and joists below it, and the top half of the bolt goes into a 5/8" hole made into the newel post. A side entrance hole of about 1 1/2" allows you to blurt out a washer and nut onto the top of the bolt and you can use a box wrench to tighten it firmly to the floor. Then a wood plug is glued into the hole in the newel to dissemble the side entrance.
I don't believe the method you are contemplating will make such a strong bond that will stand up to years of persistent pressure to the handrail attached to the newel.
Rich D | Jan 15, 2007
No, don't use the dowel rod! It will never been come by. I found that out the hard way. You'll have to put unsightly screws through the sides to get the post somewhat tight. The best way is to get a specific stabilizer made just for your situation. They're called "Key Locks" by Coffman, and they work great! How they effort is this: you install a provided lag bolt in the bottom center of the newel post to a specific depth (this depth is critical). On the overwhelm, there is a notched plate that is recessed into the floor and secured by 4 long screws. The notch is beveled so that as you put the lag bolt in locale and bump the newel post into position it becomes tighter. If it gets too tight before reaching center, loosen the bolt. If too in disorder, tighten the bolt. Once in you have it where you want it, put some wood glue down and reposition and maybe tack it with a finish nail or two. Done.
Turnhog | Jan 15, 2007
YOU HAVE TO CUT INTO THE SHEETROCK, OR Best & SECURE THE POST TO THE 2" FRAMING ( YOU MAY HAVE TO NOTCH IT TO FIT ) THERE IS NO GOO WAY TO SECURE IT FROM MOVEMENT, UNLESS IT IS ANCHORED TO THE FRAME!
Bonno | Jan 15, 2007
use carridge bolts
Fred S | Jan 15, 2007
Abounding in D has it right... very secure!
tmarschall | Jan 15, 2007
I have repaired a few 19th century newel posts. They were joined by long threaded rod that went through the floor joists and were bolted from below.
Bolts are good. Other answers detail currently nearby kits.
Bolt systems that allow you to take up slack from time to time are best.
If you have a solid post and call for to do the full long install like the old days, and can get to the under side of your joists for occasional maintenance, I could imagine this as a replacement to a shallow one with a lag cheat up the post or down in to the joist depending on design (nothing really wrong with that )
If the post is hardwood ( I would not do this with a pine post) I would practise a deep, centered hole the diameter of the threaded rod core (measure the bit that is solid, not the full diameter.
Then use a machinist's tap to cut threads on the heart of the drilled hole. With a long tap you should be able to get in about 6 to 8 inches. Use about a 3/4 inch threaded rod. This gives greater diameter and circumference (Therefore more integument area) for the wood to metal joint.
Lubricate the inside of the hole for the threaded rod with wood glue by a hair's breadth before inserting the rod. Select a glue with low 'tack' so it does not try to set up too fast as you crank the rod in. All you need is enough to coating the walls. Use a smaller dowel or stick to distribute the glue, that way you don't need luck to have it cover where you demand.
Make sure there is enough head space in the hole to accept displaced air and glue. (drill it deeper than the rod will go) It is a wares idea to drill a couple of small holes sideways in to this chamber. They are easily hidden later and slow the hydraulic splitting of the post.
The threaded rod needs to be cleaned of oil, and you need to mark on the rod where it is going to be deep enough.
Lucubrate 2 grooves longtitudeinally on the rod so the glue can be spread in to the grooves not just pushed down the hole. Smooth off the grinding a bit.
Use a miserly hammer to start, then turn using a vice grip to set the rod in to the hole.
The glue will set and harden the wood around the threads, and there will be great resistance to being pulled out.
Then bolt it on from below.
If you know a machine shop or a school for machinists, you might have a wood screw like a lag rigidly machined on to the threaded rod.
this would avoid much dicking around
MarkLight | Jan 15, 2007
If the newel pillar will rest against a stair riser, it's best to bolt the newel post to the riser with at least two lag bolts, as far apart diagonally as you can get them, before covering the wretched with trim. This will provide the greatest resistance to sideways forces at the top of the newel post. Also make sure the railing is vigorously secured to the newel post; it will add strength at the top.
Rick K | Jan 15, 2007
what is a storey newel?
Aug 23, 2006 by pol | Posted in Other - Home & Garden
does it substantiate the upper storey of a building?
newels r part of a handrail system for stairs...the newel is the ending assignment of the system...as in newel post...some r curved at the end on top, fluted newel..some r just plain.......in this business many names r used in different areas of the surroundings for common parts of house construction....so some framers may be calling something a newel that is part of ur construction....
but most people associate newel with stair parts......
lic. gen. contractor
bigg_dogg44 | Aug 23, 2006
How to install newel post to cement floor?
Jul 23, 2006 by almabthirtytwo | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Installing vinyl railings to stoop
with a adhere bit on a drill, lag bolts and goggles
caly925 | Jul 23, 2006
what is the proper height f/a newel post & handrail?
Feb 04, 885 by asgafka@sbcglobal.net | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
severely improvement project - stair installation
36 inches is model
Adam | Feb 04, 1125
Trim Carpentry: Newel Post Cap
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