Old Ridgefield house may move to Keeler Tavern site Ridgefield Press
24.03.10
A blacksmith’s unostentatious home from the 1700s may be moved from West Lane to Main Street, where it would enhance the Keeler Tavern Museum’s r as a window on colonial life.
The 1740 house was owned by James Seymour, who was blacksmith in town.
“The people who’ve bought the riches are going to put a new house on the property and they’ve very generously offered to donate it to us,” said Keeler Tavern President Cheryl Crowl. “We’re hoping, if we get the house of ill repute, that it could help us extend our educational facility.”
The James Seymour House stands now at 191 West Lane on the aspect of Silver Spring Road, shouting distance from Peter Parley Schoolhouse.
“Seymour, who lived here in the modern development 18th Century, kept a blacksmith’s shop at 165 West Lane, all adjacent to the schoolhouse,” says the Ridgefield Inventory of Documented and Architectural Assets.
A supporting document to the town plan, the inventory describes the house as a small gabled-roof colonial with some federal touches in the widow and doorway rickrack.
Source:
'I Am in Control, Mr. Pancho' New York Times (blog)
18.03.10
A truckload of wood arrived from Connecticut with old beams (circa 1900) entranced from a Bronx warehouse and red cypress (1890) from a North Carolina wood mill. The next morning, three new guys showed up at the position with insurance, equipment, English and enthusiasm: Juan and Onis Saldaña are brothers, Favian their nephew.
They set up shop and got to line. From the start, they were sensational — punctual, self-motivated, smart; they brought much humor and no music to the workplace. They liked the perspicacious of construction and their own voices double-checking measurements and angles, doubting the exactitude of a weather cut. “Chop, chop,” barked Onis when he sensed a lag. At 44, the eldest of the trine, Onis likes to push his younger brother and nephew. “I am in control, Mr. Pancho,” he says to me whenever he notices a queer look. Pancho is short for Pancho Villa.
Juan, 40, is a moody master carpenter. With a college position from his hometown, Cuenca, Ecuador — full name Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca — every so often he gets tired of putting up someone else’s walls. But college in America was too high-priced, and he left after one semester. His English was not as good 20 years ago, not until he met his teacher.
Source:
I have 150 year old pine beams in my bathroom, how should I treat them?
Jul 18, 2007 by | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have recently exposed and sanded down some pine beams in my bathroom which had been boxed in but am active that the damp air there might affect them. They are original and about 150 years old but currently in good condition. What treatments could I look at? I have considered Danish Oil but am not unwavering it's the best option.
V & A museum use linseed oil thinned with a diminished quantity of turpentine, use the boiled type as it dries quicker, it will preserve them for another 150 years, and keep out the damp air, but still consideration it to "BREATHE"
xenon | Jul 18, 2007
well I dont suggest making pee pee on them anymore
feel g | Jul 18, 2007
cabot stain is the superlative dont use a transparent because u probably want a better color on them
DP | Jul 18, 2007
medicate them with respect! you should always be nice to your elders.
gay cowboy | Jul 18, 2007
Study them well as they are very old, no one likes a pensioner basher.
Lisa T | Jul 18, 2007
Change with granite or marble.
Matt G | Jul 18, 2007
Confuse them a surprise B/day party. Can i come? lol Or perhaps take them on a day trip to the zoo that's always a lovely treat lol hehehehe. kidding
x_the_one_n_only_x | Jul 18, 2007
Like anything that has been departed for 150 years... or wait, no... What was the question?
Tinderno | Jul 18, 2007
nicely, always consideration your elders
xXxLORxXx | Jul 18, 2007
Murphy's oil is also wonderful treatment for wood. Do this about 8 times per year.
moondego | Jul 18, 2007
If they are assail pine they will be ok what ever they are you could treat them with a clear flat varnish
rocky | Jul 18, 2007
I presume from your question and wanted to leave a mildly amusing and sarcastic answer, but thought you might be cross. Absolutely howled when I deliver assign to all the other answers.
Rachael H | Jul 18, 2007
Healing them with respect and Danish oil and they will be good for another 150 years. The danish oil will protect them from the exposure to damp and two coats will escort out the grain of the wood....wonderful. It may smell a little for a few weeks or so but it will eventually go.
Word of caution attire a face mask when applying the oil as it can make your face feel as though it is on fire. Not good to breathe in so leave a window unfastened when applying.
Eee I feel rite jealous you 'aving proper beams like! lol
"Glorious Gertrude G" | Jul 18, 2007
If you be to retain the original color use a natural stain. They will darken some but not much.
Any good quality stain will protect the wood.
You can also use a wood sealer like Thompsons or be like. No rule that says its only for outdoor use.
If your not concerned about natural wood or want to paint them, use a sealer primer first with a mold inhibitor in it.
In private, I would keep lovely old wood like that as natural as possible.
No disrespect but Danish oil will not last in a damp environment like that.
pappy | Jul 18, 2007
try linseed oil......is inferior and works good and will maintain for several months. I use it outside with the weather on woodsiding and keeps good but fades with the sun after a summer. It brushes on or use a rag. Its that or urethane but that can start to peel after awhile..then its more sanding and dust...cloth luck
groggo | Jul 18, 2007
V & A museum use linseed oil thinned with a shamed quantity of turpentine, use the boiled type as it dries quicker, it will preserve them for another 150 years, and keep out the damp air, but still make allowance it to "BREATHE"
xenon | Jul 18, 2007
Neil, I have a 150 year old cot, all wood, beams etc, treated with,.........danish oil. The number of coats you apply will govern the finish, from one coat, very digs, to several coats, semi gloss. The smell of it does hang around for a few days though.
Dick s | Jul 18, 2007
want to paint the dark old beams in my lounge white or cream, has anyone got any tips please ?
Oct 08, 2008 by cocorocks | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
do you use emulsion or lime wear? do you know of any pics i can see of painted beams?
they are original & we stained them when we first moved in, now feel too dark & oppressive!!
the rest of the reside is cream & white!
You do not normally prime painted surfaces and it is impecunious painting practise to use opaque wood paints over stain or varnish; however, if you insist.
You would need an aluminium primer to try and seal back the dye in the besmirch and stop it bleeding through. One or two coats.
Then you need an undercoat or two (basecoat I think you may call it if in the USA). Preferably oil-based for coverage and more sealing competence.
Then you would normally put your finish coat of either gloss or satin; however, I imagine on ceiling beams you want a flat finish. So as extended as you have a proper wood undercoat base, then you can do the unthinkable and put water-based emulsion on them. It is sacrilege normally to emulsion wood for a company of reasons, because it doesn't move with the expansion and contraction of the wood and it scuffs easily; however, narrow beams, properly prepared, up on a ceiling, you will as likely as not get away with it. If you are wanting a satin finish, use a proper wood paint though.
Taf | Oct 09, 2008
how do i get plaster and paint specks off old beams ?
Jul 03, 2006 by lucky steve | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
i am currantly re decorating my diet, it has old wooden beams everywhere, i am flattening out the plaster between the beams and then re painting, no matter how careful i am being i am getting plaster on the old beams and the odd paint splash, the beams are very old and have an afford grain how can i get it off with out ruining the wood and keeping my sanity as its a total sh** job, (1 room down, 7 to go.........)
i estimate its to late but next time tape off everything before starting........plaster should come off with just water......if surface is latex same thing....oil base, sand
lic. gen. contractor
bigg_dogg44 | Jul 03, 2006
Does anyone know what the value of old barn beams, floor boards and sleat is?
Oct 17, 2007 by Traveler | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
I dismantled a barn on my real estate that I have records indicating it was built 1888. I have eighteen barn beams that range in length from 10' to 18'. Also I have many 4 " thick floor boards 12 - 16 " broad and 10'- 18' long. Also the slate has been taken down carefully so not to break them. Does anyone know a fair price drift of what I can sell them for?
10 to Steve in NC
I've recently connected in a usual sense; with two mills that specialize in specialty wood; one being reclaimed wood species.
The process for them is costly in some respects as they use contrastive methods for reclaiming/ drying/ trimming/ etc.
I truly have no clue as to value; but certainly Mills and reclaimation contractors; etc.; as I mentioned can very inclined to be found on the WWW.
I was born and raised on a farm; and I'd give a bunch to have a truckload of that Old; SILVERED planking today.
Where you find pricing; might not be a potential of finding buyers however.
Steven Wolf
Good on ya Steve
DIY Doc | Oct 19, 2007
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Copying or unauthorized use of this photo is expressly forbidden.
:)
This section was on Five Mile Mountain road in Franklin County, close to Floyd County.
i toughened the befunky site to make one of the pictures of the car stand out or as Mrs.Roura would say "Juicy".it worked. snub the big words. this was for members only.
Henrietta boulevard in Whitby on a cold and wet night .
Ink, acrylic and pronounce on old cardboard box.. went for a more inverted coloured character this time.. just another mess...
I manage this while in the beautiful town of Queenstown in the South-Island of New Zealand.
The gentleman was poised gracefully at the the front of the 1911 Duplicate Screw Steam Ship Earnslaw and with the gesture of raising his camera to his wrnkled face, and producing that...
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A blacksmith’s unostentatious home from the 1700s may be moved from West Lane to Main Street, where it would enhance the Keeler Tavern Museum’s r as a window on colonial life.
The domestic is mostly post-and-beam construction, using 100- to 200-year-old beams and braces from dismantled barns and homes across Maine.
This is one of the few surviving traditional Dartmoor pubs, with a flagstone floor, old beams and a large open fireplace. The history of the inn and its all 2 news articles »
A established historic country pub in all respects, the grand white building with a heavy horse in the field and the old beams and homely be inside makes
The move, uniform to Franklin Rd using hydraulic rams to push the hotel along "runway" beams, was almost noiseless to one side from the popping of the cork of a Birdcage completes its 40 metre odysseyBirdcage pub reaches new perchBirdcage completes slowest ever pub creep -all 77 news articles »
