I have 150 year old pine beams in my bathroom, how should I treat them?
Jul 18, 2007 by | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have recently exposed and sanded down some pine beams in my bathroom which had been boxed in but am active that the damp air there might affect them. They are original and about 150 years old but currently in good condition. What treatments could I look at? I have considered Danish Oil but am not unwavering it's the best option.
V & A museum use linseed oil thinned with a diminished quantity of turpentine, use the boiled type as it dries quicker, it will preserve them for another 150 years, and keep out the damp air, but still consideration it to "BREATHE"
xenon | Jul 18, 2007
well I dont suggest making pee pee on them anymore
feel g | Jul 18, 2007
cabot stain is the superlative dont use a transparent because u probably want a better color on them
DP | Jul 18, 2007
medicate them with respect! you should always be nice to your elders.
gay cowboy | Jul 18, 2007
Study them well as they are very old, no one likes a pensioner basher.
Lisa T | Jul 18, 2007
Change with granite or marble.
Matt G | Jul 18, 2007
Confuse them a surprise B/day party. Can i come? lol Or perhaps take them on a day trip to the zoo that's always a lovely treat lol hehehehe. kidding
x_the_one_n_only_x | Jul 18, 2007
Like anything that has been departed for 150 years... or wait, no... What was the question?
Tinderno | Jul 18, 2007
nicely, always consideration your elders
xXxLORxXx | Jul 18, 2007
Murphy's oil is also wonderful treatment for wood. Do this about 8 times per year.
moondego | Jul 18, 2007
If they are assail pine they will be ok what ever they are you could treat them with a clear flat varnish
rocky | Jul 18, 2007
I presume from your question and wanted to leave a mildly amusing and sarcastic answer, but thought you might be cross. Absolutely howled when I deliver assign to all the other answers.
Rachael H | Jul 18, 2007
Healing them with respect and Danish oil and they will be good for another 150 years. The danish oil will protect them from the exposure to damp and two coats will escort out the grain of the wood....wonderful. It may smell a little for a few weeks or so but it will eventually go.
Word of caution attire a face mask when applying the oil as it can make your face feel as though it is on fire. Not good to breathe in so leave a window unfastened when applying.
Eee I feel rite jealous you 'aving proper beams like! lol
"Glorious Gertrude G" | Jul 18, 2007
If you be to retain the original color use a natural stain. They will darken some but not much.
Any good quality stain will protect the wood.
You can also use a wood sealer like Thompsons or be like. No rule that says its only for outdoor use.
If your not concerned about natural wood or want to paint them, use a sealer primer first with a mold inhibitor in it.
In private, I would keep lovely old wood like that as natural as possible.
No disrespect but Danish oil will not last in a damp environment like that.
pappy | Jul 18, 2007
try linseed oil......is inferior and works good and will maintain for several months. I use it outside with the weather on woodsiding and keeps good but fades with the sun after a summer. It brushes on or use a rag. Its that or urethane but that can start to peel after awhile..then its more sanding and dust...cloth luck
groggo | Jul 18, 2007
V & A museum use linseed oil thinned with a shamed quantity of turpentine, use the boiled type as it dries quicker, it will preserve them for another 150 years, and keep out the damp air, but still make allowance it to "BREATHE"
xenon | Jul 18, 2007
Neil, I have a 150 year old cot, all wood, beams etc, treated with,.........danish oil. The number of coats you apply will govern the finish, from one coat, very digs, to several coats, semi gloss. The smell of it does hang around for a few days though.
Dick s | Jul 18, 2007
want to paint the dark old beams in my lounge white or cream, has anyone got any tips please ?
Feb 04, 6577 by cocorocks | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
do you use emulsion or lime wear? do you know of any pics i can see of painted beams?
they are original & we stained them when we first moved in, now feel too dark & oppressive!!
the rest of the reside is cream & white!
You do not normally prime painted surfaces and it is impecunious painting practise to use opaque wood paints over stain or varnish; however, if you insist.
You would need an aluminium primer to try and seal back the dye in the besmirch and stop it bleeding through. One or two coats.
Then you need an undercoat or two (basecoat I think you may call it if in the USA). Preferably oil-based for coverage and more sealing competence.
Then you would normally put your finish coat of either gloss or satin; however, I imagine on ceiling beams you want a flat finish. So as extended as you have a proper wood undercoat base, then you can do the unthinkable and put water-based emulsion on them. It is sacrilege normally to emulsion wood for a company of reasons, because it doesn't move with the expansion and contraction of the wood and it scuffs easily; however, narrow beams, properly prepared, up on a ceiling, you will as likely as not get away with it. If you are wanting a satin finish, use a proper wood paint though.
Taf | Feb 04, 759
how do i get plaster and paint specks off old beams ?
Jul 03, 2006 by lucky steve | Posted in Do It Yourself (DIY)
i am currantly re decorating my diet, it has old wooden beams everywhere, i am flattening out the plaster between the beams and then re painting, no matter how careful i am being i am getting plaster on the old beams and the odd paint splash, the beams are very old and have an afford grain how can i get it off with out ruining the wood and keeping my sanity as its a total sh** job, (1 room down, 7 to go.........)
i estimate its to late but next time tape off everything before starting........plaster should come off with just water......if surface is latex same thing....oil base, sand
lic. gen. contractor
bigg_dogg44 | Jul 03, 2006
Does anyone know what the value of old barn beams, floor boards and sleat is?
Oct 17, 2007 by Traveler | Posted in Decorating & Remodeling
I dismantled a barn on my real estate that I have records indicating it was built 1888. I have eighteen barn beams that range in length from 10' to 18'. Also I have many 4 " thick floor boards 12 - 16 " broad and 10'- 18' long. Also the slate has been taken down carefully so not to break them. Does anyone know a fair price drift of what I can sell them for?
10 to Steve in NC
I've recently connected in a usual sense; with two mills that specialize in specialty wood; one being reclaimed wood species.
The process for them is costly in some respects as they use contrastive methods for reclaiming/ drying/ trimming/ etc.
I truly have no clue as to value; but certainly Mills and reclaimation contractors; etc.; as I mentioned can very inclined to be found on the WWW.
I was born and raised on a farm; and I'd give a bunch to have a truckload of that Old; SILVERED planking today.
Where you find pricing; might not be a potential of finding buyers however.
Steven Wolf
Good on ya Steve
DIY Doc | Oct 19, 2007
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